Ultimate Cashmere Guide: Care & Quality Tips - Luca Faloni

Cashmere knitwear has always been at the centre of the Luca Faloni Autumn Winter Collection. 

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However, despite its reputation as the finest material for the colder months of the year, cashmere and its unique properties are not always fully understood. Here is our guide covering everything you need to know about this fine material.

Quality cashmere is not only the finest, softest and warmest yarn, but it is also a very durable product, which can easily last 10 years and over 200 wears when taken care of properly. In this article we explore its qualities, the difference between good and bad cashmere, and how to assess it. Lastly, we will explain how to take care of your cashmere knitwear over the years.

Why is Cashmere better than wool?

Warmth – Its insulation capacity is three times higher than wool (up to eight times for the very best cashmere), making it perfect for maintaining your body temperature. The result is a yarn that keeps you warm but not hot.

Softness – The diameter of cashmere fibres is very small, creating a very fine texture, the softest of all yarns.

No itchiness – For the same reason, the density of fibres are much higher than wool, and therefore the texture is not scratchy. This gives a great feeling when wearing cashmere directly on the skin or when touching a jumper.

Lightness – Given its insulating qualities, cashmere jumpers can be lighter than those made of wool and still keep perfect body temperature.

Shape resilience - Quality cashmere does not shrink when washed correctly, and will retain shape better than wool over the years.

Durability – The best cashmere jumpers can last 10 years when the right care is given to the garment. It is not uncommon to hear of people wearing cashmere jumpers from their grandparents. 

Pilling – This happens when short fibres twist around themselves in areas of the jumper where there is more friction, creating small bobbles. This phenomenon is inevitable due to the presence of shorter fibres and it afflicts expensive cashmere as well.

However, in the latter it should stop after the first few washes, and it should happen much less than with cheaper alternatives (where fibres are much shorter). Don’t worry, normal pilling is easy to remove with a cashmere comb, shaving machines or even simply by hand.

Care – Cashmere fibres are shorter and thinner than most other yarns, therefore you will need to follow the washing instruction to avoid damaging the garment.

What to look for in cashmere and what are the differences between great and poor cashmere:

First of all, always check the label. What many brands call “cashmere” is just a poor blend between cashmere and wool. This can be much cheaper, but drastically inferior in terms of quality and feel, and more subject to pilling.

Additionally, while a 100% cashmere label can be technically accurate, it is often extremely misleading. Not all cashmere is equal. A jumper made with great cashmere is an investment, which will last a long time. Saving money on cheap options is a mistake that results in a less durable product, which will fall apart after a few washes. Inferior materials and inferior manufacturing translate to a much higher cost per wear.

To an unexperienced eye it is not always easy to differentiate between great and low quality cashmere before the first few washes. Here we analyse what you should look for to make sure you are getting the best cashmere:

Length of fibres: From a technical point of view, quality of fibres depends on their thickness and length. The longer they are, the more resistant and durable the jumper will be, and it will also generate less pilling. Cashmere fibre lengths range from 28 to 42mm. Longer fibres are usually found on the neck and underbelly and are much more expensive.

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Thickness of fibres: The lower the thickness, the softer the yarn will be. Fibres’ diameter can range from 15 to 19 microns, with a massive impact on softness. Watch out however for baby cashmere; while some brands use this product for great marketing, it is too fine, compromising its durability.

Touch the jumper to see if it is soft and light and place it on your neck to test if it is itchy or not. Be aware that some cheaper brands disguise the touch by adding resin to make jumpers softer in stores, but this effect will soon disappear. Other brands over-wash them, but this will make the jumpers wear out much faster. Also, try to examine its surface. Excessive initial fluffiness might mean the yarn was spun from shorter and less resistant fibres. Similarly, move your hand on it and see if fibres begin to roll up; this could be due to a high percentage of short fibres, which will likely pill more.

Number of ply: Look for two-ply cashmere garments, where two threads of yarn are twisted together to give a more resistant knit. Single-ply cashmere will be less durable and might develop holes more easily. Two-ply also means that the sweater will be knitted more tightly, therefore being softer and warmer. Brands should say how much ply they have used in the garment, if not check how tight the knitting is and you should get a feeling.

Origin of fibres: Not all the cashmere goats are created equal. Some live in areas where temperature variation is higher, therefore their fibres are finer and more premium. Inner Mongolia is generally seen as the best origin, due to harsher winters and the better diet of the goats.

When you invest in great cashmere products, you are stepping up the longevity and luxury of your wardrobe, by adding items with several unique properties. These garments will keep their quality and shape longer than wool knitwear, therefore earning back your initial investment over the years, and giving you a lower cost per wear.

Some people might be fooled into buying very affordable cashmere from a big chain, but once you look at what you are buying, it becomes clear that the money is not always well spent. The product will look drastically different after a few washes.

The best yarns, from companies like Cariaggi, with the whitest, longest and finest fibres cost up to 200 euros per kg and brands need circa 300 grams for a single jumper. Once you add in the cost of knitting and finishing, it becomes clear that anyone selling jumpers at very low prices took some shortcuts.

The only problem with cashmere is that its luxury and softness are addictive. Once you try it, it will be difficult to go back to normal wool.

Hi Everyone. I hope I find you all well. As the winter chills continue there's no better way to stay cozy and look stylish than in a classic Aran sweater. Its iconic status is undeniable so it's not surprising that Aran sweaters continue to remain our top sellers here at The Irish Store. Here's some interesting facts about one of Ireland's most famous exports.

1. The Aran Islands

So this is where it all began! The iconic Aran sweater takes its name from the trio of islands on the west of Ireland just off the coast of County Galway. Inishmore is the biggest of the islands followed by Inishmann and the smallest island, Inisheer. The islander women knitted the first Aran sweaters as a protective layer for the islander fishermen and farmers.

The combinations of stitches that we admire on sweaters today were no accident. Family patterns were closely guarded and passed down through generations. It is even claimed that the bodies of Aran Islander fishermen who had died at sea could be identified by the pattern on their Aran sweater.

2. The Original Fisherman's Sweater

3. There's an Aran sweater in the Book of Kells!

Ok so this is definitely a myth but it wouldn't be Irish without the odd tall tale! It is claimed that Aran stitch patterns can be seen in one of Ireland's most precious treasures, 

4. The Amazing Craft

The amazing skill involved in creating an Aran sweater cannot be underestimated. The intricacy of the designs and the mastery that these Aran knitters commanded of their craft still amazes experts to this day. An sweater is a true work of art containing approximately 100,000 painstakingly constructed stitches.

5. Every Stitch Tells a Tale

6. A Fashion Icon

Throughout the s and 40s, the Aran sweater gained popularity around the world and when Grace Kelly appeared in an Aran sweater on the cover of vogue in the s, this humble Irish sweater was catapulted to iconic status, cementing its reputation as an Irish design classic.

7. Famous Fans

The fame of the Aran sweater spread further with New York Village's folk scene during the s and s. The Irish folk music group The Clancy Brothers, friends of Bob Dylan, wore their Aran sweaters for their appearance on the Ed Sullivan Show in the early s, introducing it to millions of American homes. Famous fans included Marilyn Monroe, Elvis and the ultra-cool Steve Mc Queen. Present day celebrities spotted sporting Ireland's favorite sweater include Taylor Swift, Sarah-Jessica Parker and mega star Adele.

8. A Place in Fashion History

In the Aran sweater earned itself its rightful place in the "Is Fashion Modern" exhibition at the world renowned Museum of Modern Art in New York City. Chosen as one of 111 items of clothing and accessories that have influenced fashion over the last 100 years, the Aran sweater sat side by side with such fashion icons as the little black dress, the biker jacket, the Wonderbra and Levi jeans to name but a few.

Are you interested in learning more about Women's Open-Front Long-Sleeve Cardigan Supplier? Contact us today to secure an expert consultation!