Type of Aluminum Sheet Metal Needed For Decking and Flooring

Hey guys.
I was wondering if anyone could shed some light on the exact type of sheet metal that is good for flooring and decking in a Jon boat. I'm currently working on redoing a Monark 15 ft boat and after countless searches, I can't find any specifics in regards to thickness or type of sheet metal. I went to a local sheet metal shop today and they told me that I would need at least 1/8 thick metal for me to be able to step on it and it not bend. Also that they would have to order T aluminum due to the fact that regular sheet metal will degrade in saltwater. The fact they must special order this puts the price at about $400 for a 5x10 sheet. Is this a fair price? Thanks for your help! 1/8' would be overkill, I've installed lots of floors and decks, and used 1/8" material for floors but only at the customers request. When I installed a new floor in my Roughneck I used 1/8 only because of the factory bracing being spaced out so far apart. Now its sturdy no doubt and you cant feel any flex, but when I put the floor and decks in my it will be .090. If you brace the floor between the stringers with closed cell foam you'd be surprised at how thin of material you can use. The price you posted sounds a little steep. I just got a quote yesterday for a 5x10 sheet of .063 plate to rebuild my gunnels and side plates for $80 bucks. I purchased a 5x10 sheet of .125 (1/8") for $252 not long ago. Bracing is the key to using thinner material. I am using 1/8 (.125) on my build.. I just purchased 1 sheet 6x4 and 3 sheets 5x4 for about $380. I also got a sheet 8x4 in 12 gauge (.90) also for about $90 to build my console so I was able to compare if 12 gauge would have been enough and I think it would all depend on the amount of support you had under it. I don't think I would use it on a casting deck but if you used it on the floor with foam to support it like dearl said I think you would be fine. I would definitely use over T because its easier to cut, bend, weld, and work with in a marine application due to it being a bit softer. (these are just my opinions) good luck with the build! I was in the same dilemma a few months ago, I decided on 1/8" diamonplate over smooth plate. Have you decided what your finish on the deck/floor will be? Paint? Tuff coat? agree with the previous posts the ribs have a lot to do with it. New ribs and closed cell foam under my floor has very minimal flex. I ordered a 4 x 10 of 1/8 diamond plate for my floor and it was $185 a year ago then a 5 x 10 sheet of the same for my front deck $300 a couple weeks ago. Might be overkill but is nice and solid

Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk I just painted the inside of my boat floor console etc.. Check out my post under " tracker" tons of research on this site and others and the process went as so
2 coats self etching primer
2 coats paint (olive drab)
4+ coats clear, high traffic/abuse areas received 8-10+ coats
So far it's flawless in my book for a non-painter I would use perforated aluminum. Have had it in 3 flat bottom jets and will not own an aluminum boat without it. All the dealers here in south central and south east Missouri who put together jet boats put it in the boats. Not sure where they get it, but man is it sweet. Doesn't get hot and so much better than carpet. I have included a pic of my boat, u might have to zoom in to see it.


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Catch Release Repeat said: Impressive, really like that floor, and even more the seats. Where are those from? Is there a thread for your build?


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Thanks for the comments on my boat. The seats are made by tempress I think. My jet boat dealer gets them made just for him with certain colors. The floor I think is a must and they aren't cheap to install, I think around 500 for entire floor installed. Well worth it tho. Everyone here in southern Missouri has them in their jet boats. There not a thread on my build however you can pm with any questions and I have lots of pics and info I can send you.


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Hi guys hope all is well!

I've come across a situation I've not been in before - been asked to quote a commercial lvt job...the subfloor is currently metal (I believe aluminium) floor tiles screwed down across the floor. Attached a photo of how it looks.

What would be the best way to level it? Original thoughts were to use Jumpax, but due to the cost of it, I am now thinking is there any latex which would sit right on a metal floor? Can't seem to find any info online.. Any help is much appreciated...

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You need to check there is no movement in the floor.
Then 6mm ply, coil nailed or screwed. We normally use F3 also on raised access.
I think F-Ball do a prime & fill that they said could be used over raised access, but ive never used it, and not sure I would trust it.
Is it a big area, and have they run there cables ?

I’ve used the fill and prime and it’s great. Saves loads of time and humping sheets of ply upstairs.

So fill & prime, then what did you use over the top ?