The Ultimate Guide to Choosing Edge Glued Panel

Wooden worktops provide a real style boost to any kitchen if they are well fitted and well looked after.  One of the dilemmas often faced by people fitting or having wooden worktops fitted is whether to plump for a single stave worktop or to opt for a worktop that is made up of smaller staves (or pieces) of wood.

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Those who choose the small stave option then need to decide what sort of joint to select within the worktop itself. A full stave worktop is a worktop made of lengths of wood that run the full length of the worktop, which means there is no need for joins along the surface of the worktop.  Naturally a more expensive option than a worktop made up of smaller pieces of wood, single stave worktops are often out of peoples’ budgets.  It’s for this reason that worktops made from smaller staves of wood are highly popular.  These types of worktop are often called thin strip or stave worktops.

When it comes to choosing a worktop made from small staves of wood which have been joined together, there are two common types: finger joint and edge glued worktop panels.  Which you choose will depend on your budget, the life expectancy you have in mind for your worktop and the look you’re hoping to achieve.

In very simple terms, a finger joint is made by cutting what looks like “teeth” into the ends of the staves of wood and matching them with alternate teeth which are cut into the ends of the facing staves.  This process can either be carried out by hand or by machine.  As you would expect, machine finger jointed wood is less expensive than hand worked finger jointed wood.  Either way, once the wood is slotted into place with it’s matching image, it is glued in place to create a strong bond.

Edge glue worktop panels, again as the name suggests, are made by gluing the staves of the worktops together edge to edge.  Although this method of fixing the staves is strong and functional, these types of joints often are less resistant to long-term wear and tear than finger jointed staves.  This is commonly borne out in the price, which, relatively speaking is lower than finger jointed wooden worktop panels.

You will be able to recognise these different types of worktop panels easily by looking at the ends of each of the small staves of wood.  On a finger joint panel, you will be able to see the interlocking “teeth” cut into the edge of each stave and on an edge glued panel worktop you’ll see straight “edge to edge” joins.  Which you prefer, in many ways is down to personal preference, but in most cases, you’ll find that edge glued is a cheaper option because the production process is less labour intensive.

When you’re choosing your preferred wood worktop option, it’s a good idea to look carefully at all the options that fall within your budget before making your final decision.  What’s more, if you have any doubts about which solution would work best in your particular kitchen, your worktop supplier should be able to guide you professionally and informatively.  If, for any reason you find that they hesitate to give you the information that you need, that in itself is a good idea to choose another supplier.

Full Stave vs. Small Stave Worktops

Full Stave WorktopsSmall Stave WorktopsConstructionMade of lengths of wood that run the full length of the worktop. No need for joins along the surface.Made from smaller pieces of wood, also known as thin strip or stave worktops.CostTend to be more expensive due to the larger pieces of wood used.Often more budget-friendly due to the use of smaller wood pieces.Types of JointsNo joints required due to the use of full-length staves.Can use either finger joints (where “teeth” are cut into the ends of the staves and then interlocked) or edge glued panels (where staves are glued together edge to edge).DurabilityStrong and durable due to the use of full-length staves.Durability can depend on the type of joint used. Finger joints are often more resistant to long-term wear and tear than edge glued panels.AppearanceProvides a uniform, continuous look due to the full-length staves.The look can depend on the type of joint used. Finger joints show interlocking “teeth” at the ends of each stave, while edge glued panels show straight “edge to edge” joins.

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FAQ

What is a full stave worktop?

A full stave worktop is a worktop made of lengths of wood that run the full length of the worktop, which means there is no need for joins along the surface of the worktop.

What are small stave worktops?

Small stave worktops, also referred to as thin strip or stave worktops, are worktops made from smaller pieces of wood. They are a popular choice as they are often more budget-friendly than full stave worktops.

What is a finger joint in a worktop?

A finger joint is made by cutting what looks like “teeth” into the ends of the staves of wood and matching them with alternate teeth which are cut into the ends of the facing staves. Once the wood is slotted into place with its matching image, it is glued in place to create a strong bond.

What are edge glue worktop panels?

Edge glue worktop panels are made by gluing the staves of the worktops together edge to edge. Although this method of fixing the staves is strong and functional, these types of joints often are less resistant to long-term wear and tear than finger jointed staves.

How can I choose between different types of wooden worktops?

When choosing your preferred wood worktop option, it’s a good idea to look carefully at all the options that fall within your budget. You can also consult with your worktop supplier for professional and informative guidance.

Gluing up can be a frantic time.
And if you’re like me, it’ll be messy too.

But how much should we be planning ahead, before we get it all stuck together?

When we glued up the top for our Hall Table build, we received a few questions on this topic.

They were good queries, pondering over grain direction and alternating growth rings.

So I thought we’d cover this in a little bit of detail.

The text book thoughts on this:
– Always alternate the growth rings on consecutive boards (for stability).
– Try to ensure the grain runs in the same direction throughout a glued board (for ease of planing).

In a perfect world we’d follow the above.
But then we’d also have nice clear boards, with nice straight grain.

Rarely is anything perfect.

With the glue up in question, I was dealing with some cherry boards that were gnarly, sappy, and belonged on the scrap pile.

Grain direction barely occurred to me, as I tried to salvage something that would pass off as acceptable, visually.
I didn’t even alternate the growth rings. I couldn’t, I had no choice.

Since every job is different, here’s a few thoughts on how, why and when I’ll layout boards for a glue up.

What’s The Priority?

• Structural Stability?
• Beauty?
• Ease of Working?

Generally I’d consider stability first.

If stability is going to be important then I make sure that the growth rings are alternating.

Boards want to cup as they loose moisture.
The amount they move varies a lot.

So if you have wide boards with obvious growth rings, alternating them will be very effective in keeping the glued up board flat throughout its life.

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Surprisingly though, many designs will do a good job at holding a board flat without this.

Carcase sides that are dovetailed,
A framed panel,
A top secured down to a wide frame.

These will struggle to move if they wanted to.

But what if your board is not fully supported?
Let’s say a chest lid hinged along one edge, or a stool or table top with legs shoved straight in to it.

In these examples the board is pretty much free to move.
So alternating the growth rings will certainly help to minimise the cupping over time, and in that case I’d prioritise it when planning my glue up.

Next comes beauty.

In our Hall Table, it’s not a top that’s being held by a single point.
It’s fixed to a frame using buttons.

This is an ideal situation that gives flexibility for the timber, whilst also holding it firmly down.
The frame will hold it flat here.

So with a top like this I go with what looks prettiest instead. After all, it is probably a focal piece.

Often the inside of a board is very different to the outside visually.
By alternating the growth rings you’re likely to get a problem with colour matching.

So what about the grain direction?

The idea of making sure that the grain runs in the same direction when gluing boards together is certainly sound.
It’ll make it easier to plane up and avoid nasty tear out and such.

The trouble is though, even in one board the grain’s going to come back at you at some point.
On the face of a wide board you’ll often find that on one half of the board’s width the grain is going one way, and on the other it’s going the opposite.
Because trees have twist in them as they grow.

When you’ve got a top to glue up out of two, maybe three wide boards, the chances are that you’ll have some alternating grain to deal with however they’re laid out.

You can certainly optimise, but altering the layout when there’s only a small number of boards can make a big impact visually.

Again, I would say with a top like this, go with what looks prettiest.

Because ultimately, it’s our job as craftsman to work the wood and make it look its best.
Not let the wood work us.

Your approach to planing can minimise any deep ragging out.
And when setting up for smoothing, I can plane in any direction, without tear.
That’s all about getting the plane set up right.

When Ease of Work Comes First.

There are builds when it makes a lot of sense to ensure the grain all runs in the same direction.

Something like a laminated workbench top.

When I built workbenches I was deliberately over the top with my wood selection.

I made sure I had plenty to pick through so that matching colours wasn’t difficult. If I came across a laminate I didn’t like it got demoted it to a different project.
Because the workbenches had to be perfect.

If a top was laminated I always tried to get as much of the grain running in one direction as possible.

This is preferable and much more beneficial when there’s a large number of narrow edges to be planed, rather than the wide faces.

Ready for your next glue up?

If you can give thought to all three of these aspects when gluing up boards, then you’re laughing.

But I find that in some builds prettiness wins, sometimes you’ve got to optimise for stability.

Ignore the text books, and let the job in hand tell you.

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