16 Different Types of Hand Tools and Their Uses []

The saying ‘you can never have enough tools’ is often justified, particularly when you are faced with a difficult job, where a tool you hardly use but happen to have, can complete the task. Working on the premise that most applications on the job site involve cutting, gripping, striking, turning, measuring, and marking; we have compiled this article ’16 Different Types of Hand Tools and Their Uses’ to list 16 different types of hand tools that should feature on anyone’s list when building their tool kit. 

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Tools have been selected from quality manufacturers and have useable features, are safe to use and offer proven reliability. Whilst the list may not be exhaustive, it is certainly not a bad place to start.

1. Hand Saw

For decades, the trusted handsaw featured in every carpenter’s tool bag and was called upon for cutting all kinds of wood. Traditional handsaws need to be maintained and re-sharpened on a regular basis which is time consuming and costly.  

As many modern building materials such as plywood, plasterboard, MDF and insulation contain resins, fibres and other abrasive particles, the soft teeth on a hand saw can become dull very quickly, making cutting difficult and ownership expensive. Hardpoint saws feature induction hardened teeth which remain sharp even under heavy prolonged use, they also cut much faster.  

The Irwin Jack 880 is a medium tooth pitch, universal saw, capable of cutting natural timbers and most building materials. A feature of the Jack 880 hardpoint saw is the triple ground teeth which improve cutting speed and help to prevent snagging.  Other clever features are the 90° and 45° marking angles on the handle and a water-based lacquer to prevent rust occurring on the blade. 

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2. Hacksaw

Often a go to tool for engineers, plumbers and electricians, a hacksaw can cut steel, non-ferrous metals, plastics, and composites. The thin, narrow blade is held within the frame and placed under tension using a thumbscrew or lever. Hacksaw blades are replaceable and come with different Teeth Per Inch – TPI. Lower TPI blades are used for thicker materials such as steel bar, higher TPI blades produce a cleaner cut and are used for thinner materials such as thin-walled pipe.

Milwaukee and Lenox hacksaws feature sophisticated tensioning levers to produce extremely high blade tension for faster and straighter cuts. These high-performance saws allow the blade to be mounted at 45° for flush cutting and each can store a selection of spare blades within the frame.

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3. Plasterboard Jab Saw

The use of plasterboard in modern construction is widespread due to its speed of installation, thermal properties and ease of cutting and shaping – when using the right tools! A plasterboard jab saw, also referred to as a keyhole saw or pad saw, is the perfect hand tool if you need to cut out holes for electrical sockets, pipes, extractor fans and any other services. Products like the fixed blade Milwaukee jab saw incorporate all the features you need when working on plasterboard such as:

• Specially designed plunge tip makes it easy to penetrate the board.
• Rigid blade avoids unwanted flex and helps to keep cuts straight.
• Teeth are ground to be very sharp and eject waste so cutting is effortless and fast.
• Rasping holes are cut into the blade which can be used to smooth rough edges or enlarge holes.
• The rear of the handle is wide and rounded so it can be struck with the palm of the hand to puncture sheet material.

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4. Clamp

A quality clamp can be an invaluable tool in the workshop or on site. They can be used for holding materials together during gluing applications, or, as a temporary vice when you need to ensure an item being cut does not move.  

The Irwin XP Clamp can be used with one hand and does not rely on a screw thread to bring the jaws together. A quarter tonne of clamping force helps to eliminate any unwanted slippage and is also strong enough to bring warped timbers together. The spreading feature is particularly useful in applications such as gluing support battens in-between wooden joists for nailing cut floorboards back down.

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5. Claw Hammer

Claw hammers have been around for nearly two centuries and are possibly the most recognised hand tool in the world. The head of the hammer is multi-functional with a striking face for hammering nails and a claw end for pulling them. This simple but wonderful tool can also be used to knock joists into place, strike chisels and even perform light demolition work, making it an essential tool for any trade.  

There have been design modifications over the years resulting in two versions – the curved claw hammer and rip claw hammer. Curved hammers are better for pulling nails as the shape of the head gives more leverage and reduces surface damage as the claw is rolled away from the gripped nail. A rip claw has less of a curve and is preferred for ripping wood apart, lifting floorboards and demolition duties.  

Hand tool experts such as Milwaukee, have also added other functional features such as side mounted nail pullers for tight spaces, magnetic nail holders, steel I-beam shafts and anti-shock handles.  

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6. Pry Bar or Wrecking Bar

Quite often, destruction precedes construction, as floorboards, window frames, joists and studs need ripping out to make way for replacements. Despite appearing like a crude lever, wrecking bars and pry bars are carefully designed to get into tight spaces and offer high leverage.  

Premium hand tool manufacturers such as Milwaukee also add soft grips for comfort, claws and tapered holes for pulling nails and strike zones for hammers.  

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7. Pliers

Gripping, cutting, and turning are three functions a quality plier set will allow you to perform. Arguably, you only really need VDE insulated pliers if you are an electrician or maintenance engineer that may be working on live circuits.  

At Protrade, we just like the comfort of being protected from serious injury or even death, should you unwittingly cut through a cable with electricity running through it, which is why we always recommend VDE pliers where possible. 

What are Combination Pliers?

As the name would suggest, offer a combination of features. At the tips of the jaws, finer parallel serrations can be used to grip cable sheaths and wire. Moving towards the handle the jaws no longer meet and feature oval shaped serrated edges which can clamp onto larger diameter cables, fasteners, and bolt heads. As the greatest leverage is generated near the handle this is where the cutting zone is situated. 

What are Long Round Nose Pliers?

Offer nearly all the features of a combination plier but with a rounded and long narrow tip for getting into tight spaces. 

What are Diagonal Side Cutters?

Feature a cutting zone along the full length of the jaws which is diagonally ground to allow cables, wires and small fixings to be cut flush with the surface.  

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8. Adjustable Spanner

In a perfect world you would own every size of wrench for every application you are likely to come across, and don’t forget, you would also need to consider imperial and metric sizes too! In reality, we do not live in such a place and there is always a time when we are defeated by not having the right size for the fastening in front of us.  

The beauty of an adjustable spanner is, with just a few turns of a knurled thread you can open or close the jaws to fit almost any size or type of nut or bolt head, which is why we regard them as an essential hand tool.  

Wera are known for hand tool ingenuity and the Joker self-setting spanner is their take on an adjustable wrench. A pivoting head replaces the traditional screw thread for instant size adjustment, and the spring-loaded jaws provide a ratchet like system for tightening and loosening without having to remove the jaws from the nut head.  

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9. Screwdriver

With so many different types of screw heads available, a screwdriver set comprising of pozi, phillips and slotted blades is a minimum requirement for anyone looking to start a tool kit.  

Regarded as one of the best hand tool manufacturers in the world, Wera screwdrivers feature a unique shaped handle that allows the best possible grip to turn stubborn screws, whilst also being capable of giving feedback to the user when performing tasks that require precision and feel.  

There are a huge range of screwdriver sets available to suit every type of fastener and trade. Insulated VDE screwdrivers provide safety when working on live circuits, chisel-driver screwdrivers can be struck with a hammer for use on fasteners with damaged heads and interchangeable sets use the handle as a chuck which screwdriver bits can be inserted into.

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10. Filling Knife

Having to patch up cracks in plaster, fill screw holes where wall plugs have been, or repair rotten timber is a common occurrence in any refurbishment project. Although it may look like a wall scraper, a quality filling knife is designed to incorporate blade flex to help force filler into cracks and holes.  

Blades are machined to release these sticky and viscous materials during application and leave a smooth and consistent finish.  

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11. Utility Knife

A utility knife can be used to open boxes, sharpen pencils, cut cables and even score plasterboard. These are just a few of the applications that a working knife gets used for every day. The corresponding replaceable blades go through a hardening process that makes them durable in harsh environments and cutting edges are ground to be extremely sharp. Utility knives are normally categorised as having a fixed or retractable blade, but more recently folding utility knives have become extremely popular.  

Toughbuilt have managed to take versatility another step further by launching a unique scraper utility knife. This incredibly clever tool has an inbuilt mechanism which allows the blade to turn through 90 degrees, converting the knife into a scraper, which can be used to remove paint, adhesive and labels. A discreet paint can opener has also been engineered into this practical and ingenious tool. 

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12. Tape Measure

Being able to measure the size and distance of an object, opening or space is essential in so many everyday tasks. From garments to garage doors, establishing if something fits or cutting it to make sure it does, relies on accurate measurements being taken and a tape measure is the tool most people reach for.  

Usually manufactured from thin metal, fibreglass or cloth, tape measures can measure long objects or spaces due to the length of blade material being rolled up tightly within the case. The blade features graduated markings which can be of imperial or metric scale, but it is common to show both.  

The key factors in choosing a tape measure are: 

• Length of blade.
• Preference for metric or imperial measurements.
• Blade width – wider blades can usually be extended further before they kink and fall.
• Case size and material – a rubber clad tape measure may be much better on a building site where it is prone to abuse, but it could be too cumbersome for a kitchen fitter working inside a cabinet.
• Accuracy – nearly all tape measures sold are of a class 2 accuracy level. There are very few tape measures on the market which meet the Class 1 accuracy standard which makes them twice as accurate as a Class 2 tape. 

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13. Spirit Level

A spirit level is a measuring device which determines if something is horizontal or vertical – this can be for structural or aesthetic reasons. The importance of establishing accurate horizontal and vertical planes is repeatability, continuity and safety, especially if the components are structural and they need to be joined together.  

Using a spirit level relies on the operator adjusting the tool so a small air bubble is centralised within a sealed glass or Perspex vial; once achieved, a horizontal or vertical plane is established and can be used as a reference point for marking and adjustment.   

Spirit levels come in different sizes depending on the application and distance to be measured. Other variations include magnetic bases when working with steel, lightweight hollow box section for internal and light duty tasks, solid I beam construction for heavy use and levels with digital displays and audible alarms for easy reference and use in poorly lit areas.  

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14. Carpenter’s Pencil

Referring to a pencil as a hand tool may seem overkill but it is an essential item to have in the tool bag. We have already discussed tools that measure and it’s those reference points that need to be marked on timber, masonry and other building materials – hence the need for a pencil.  

Although considered ‘just a pencil’ there has been some serious thought behind the design of a carpenter’s pencil.    

• Larger size makes it easier to hold – especially when wearing gloves.
• The lead is bigger which helps to resist breakage when being used on rough sawn timber and masonry, or if the pencil is dropped. The rectangular shape of the lead also allows a thin or wide marking line.
• The flat sides prevent the pencil from rolling away. 
• The measured and consistent rectangular dimensions of the pencil, allow two different marking heights to be made by running the pencil against a flat surface using either the wide, flat side or the narrow edge of the pencil.

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15. Combination Square

Due to its versatility, a combination square is without doubt the most popular type of square used by trades people and machinists. Comprising of a rule and sliding head which features machined 45/90° sides and a spirit level; a combination square can be used to check angles, measure depth, establish if an object is level and even find the centre of a circle.  

A protractor and centre head can also be present on some versions, further extending their area of use.  

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16. Torch

Completing any type of work is normally easier when you can see what you are doing. It’s for this reason that a torch has made its way onto our essential hand tools list. If you need to check wiring inside a cabinet, tighten a fitting under a bath or simply investigate a ceiling void, a torch will be able to light up the area you are working in.  

Torches come in different shapes, sizes, and illumination power – referred to as lumens. Torches are predominantly handheld, but head mounted torches – often referred to as head lamps, are becoming very popular as they allow both hands to remain free.  

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A final consideration is whether to opt for a torch that takes replaceable or rechargeable batteries. With so many to choose from it is too much of a challenge to single just one out so why not browse our entire range, you may even find you need more than one.

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I hope this essential ’16 Different Types of Hand Tools and Their Uses’ hand tool guide can offer you some ideas of what hand tools to consider, when starting to build or simply add to your tool kit.

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• What are the best hand tools for woodworking? All of the hand tools mentioned within this blog will be used by a woodworker at some point. But the essentials that any tradesperson working with wood must have, include hammers, chisels, hand saws, screwdrivers, tape measures, utility knives, levels, and clamps. These tools are fundamental for tasks such as measuring, cutting, shaping, and assembling materials.

• What are the best hand tool brands? At Protrade we believe in stocking only the best brands on the market. Our motto, ‘Built on Trust’, is what we stand by, and why we want our customers to be assured that when they come to Protrade, they’re buying tools that will be reliable and long lasting. The hand tool brands we have available in depots and online include: ToughBuilt, Milwaukee, Wera, Draper, Irwin, Lenox, and our own brand Maxitek. All of these brands offer a wide range of high quality, durable tools available for any hand tool user.
  Some brands specialise in specific tool categories, for example, Wera makes incredibly clever and durable screwdrivers, whilst Milwaukee offers a huge variety of pliers and cutters, and ToughBuilt’s scrapers and knives are exceptionally popular.
  If you’re unsure which hand tool brand is for you, come along to any one of our depots and try them out for yourself.

• What are the hand tools safety precautions? It’s incredibly important that when using hand tools, you follow safety precautions as failing to do so can result in injury. While some injuries will be minor, others will cause long-term physical damage and have lasting effects on employees’ lives and their ability to work.
  Here are our top 10 hand tools safety tips:

  • Always wear the right PPE for the job especially gloves and eye protection. Avoid loose clothing or jewellery.
  • Make sure you know HOW to use the tool you are going to be using and follow the CORRECT procedure.
  • Use tools that are the correct size & correct type of tool for the job.
  • Keep your cutting tools SHARP.
  • Inspect your tools to make sure they are in good condition.
  • Use proper lighting so you can see what you are doing.
  • Make sure your work area is clutter-free and is level.
  • Never leave tools unattended.
  • Carry sharp hand tools in a toolbox, not in your pocket.
  • DON’T work with OILY or GREASY hands.

• Are there any tips on how I can make sure I’m using hand tools properly? It is very important to take the time to learn how to use hand tools properly before you use them. Using hand tools incorrectly can have severe consequences, but educating yourself before you use hand tools will not only prevent injury but also ensure that any job you’re doing goes smoothly.
  Here are some tips to get you started:
  • Make sure you’re using the right tool for the job.
  • Examine each tool for damage before use and do not use damaged tools.
  • Educate yourself on how the tool works and how it is supposed to be used, it is important that you follow all of the manufacturers’ instructions.
  • ALWAYS use PPE.
  • Keep all tools in good condition with regular maintenance.
  • When using sharp hand tools… cut away from yourself.
  • Always clean the tool after use, this will help make sure the tool is in good condition for the next time you or anybody else comes to use it.
  • Check your surroundings and make sure the tool cannot get into the wrong hands.

• How to make my hand tools last longer? All of the hand tools we sell at Protrade are built to last, but to prevent rust or general wear and tear there are a few important steps that you must follow to ensure that your tool lasts as long as possible.

  • Cleaning: Wipe down tools after each use to remove dust, grease, and debris.
  • Sharpening: Regularly sharpen the blades.
  • Lubrication: Apply proper lubrication.
  • Tightening: Tighten any loose parts.
  • Inspection: Check for damage and wear and fix any obvious faults.
  • Storage: Store tools vertically, not only for easy access but for safety purposes.
  • Replacing: Replace worn-out handles and grips
  • Maintenance: Keep up regular maintenance on your hand tools. Improper maintenance can cause hand tools to deteriorate and become unsafe.

I recently got a reader request for an article on tool maintenance. I’m not necessarily the expert on tool maintenance but I’m willing to take a stab at it. Before I do that I think we should talk about one of those things every halfway competent human should possess: a set of basic hand tools. 

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“Why,” you may ask, “should every household should have a basic set of tools?” That’s a totally fair question. I think it boils down to basic self-sufficiency. You should have some tools to do some basic tasks yourself without having to call in a handy many, carpenter, plumber, or what-have-you. This is especially true if you are a homeowner and to be honest, probably just as true if you are a renter. You don’t want to have to call building maintenance every time you need a screw tightened. As I’ve mentioned before your home is your most valuable preparedness item – be prepared to take care of it!

There is also a more important reason: in a disaster you may not be able to call someone to turn off your gas or fix that leak or repair that ___. You may have to make do on your own until things calm down. This is going to be much easier to do if you have just a few basic tools. As with anything tools are nearly useless without knowledge. Get out and learn how to use your tools!

This article will proceed in a logical fashion. Not every tool is as important as every other tool, and not every tool is as imp0rtant to you as it is to someone else. I’m going to try to cover the things that are important to the masses here, starting with the very basics that everyone should have. If you’re starting completely from scratch – as a new homeowner, new college grad, or putting together an awesome gift for your child who is about to leave home  – I don’t think you can go wrong purchasing items in the order listed here.

Disclaimers and Caveats

Since I am in the midst of writing a series on preparedness, this article will be focused toward the goal of being prepared for an emergency or disaster of some sort.

Every time I write about tools or carpentry or whatever some of you guys write in with much more detailed thoughts on the matter. So I’m just going to be up-front with you: I’m not the expert on carpentry, mechanics, tools etc. I’m just an average dude. I’ve worked carpentry before, and I consider myself pretty handy but at the end of the day I’m a layman talking to laypeople.

A note on tool quality: I am not a tool snob. I would love to have a full set of Snap-On tools and if anyone wants to buy me a set I wouldn’t turn you down. That level of quality is very expensive and I’m not convinced it’s worth it for the average individual. On the other hand, though, you should not buy junk. I wouldn’t buy my tools at the grocery store, the drug store, the dollar store, or a big-box department store. Unless you just have money to spend, I would recommend buying a solid, middle-of-the-road, consumer-grade tools.

If you go too cheap you’re going to end up buying again. The Swanson Speed Square(s) above is a perfect example: the metal one is over 25 years old. I purchased it and misplaced it for a while. While it was missing I purchased the orange one that is less than five years old. The orange one is broken in two places. Because of my own error I ended up having to buy twice, but if you’re given the choice between spending $5 for the plastic one or $9 for the metal one…the metal one is the better deal.

On the other hand, if you go too expensive you’re going to spend far more money than you need to spend.  I wouldn’t spend $50 for this type of square no matter what it was made of. Most of the tools I link to here are Craftsman or other, solid, middle-of-the-road brands. You will note that many of my tools are mix-and-match. That’s just the result of breakage and – much more commonly – loss over the years.

Personal Protective Equipment

This is an often-overlooked category stuff when talking about tools. Using tools generates the potential for injury. Sometimes this potential is really small, as when tightening a screw on the leg of your dining your chair. Sometimes this potential is fairly high, as when operating a power saw. Many tools require specialized personal protective equipment (PPE). For example, if you are running a chainsaw you should absolutely have on a set of chaps (ask my brother-in-law – a man who has spent much of his adult life using a chainsaw professionally and who buried the bar of his chain saw in his leg last year). There are a few common, simple pieces of PPE that are fairly universal, however.

Safety Glasses: You will want some safety glasses. It amazes me to to see people operating weedeaters, chainsaws, and other power tools without safety glasses. Eyesight is so incredibly important to your day-to-day function. I wouldn’t want to attempt “normal” life under optimal conditions without the use of both eyes.  I certainly wouldn’t want to attempt to brave a long-term emergency with a preventable, substantial loss of eyesight. I like these inexpensive, Z87.1-rated glasses from 3M.

Hearing Protection: I have mentioned in a previous post that I am extremely disciplined at protecting my hearing.  This is because I have lost a great deal of my own hearing. Most of this hearing loss was completely, 100% preventable. Hearing loss ican be chronic, meaning you can lose a little bit at a time with a drastic cumulative effect. Your hearing is important to your function under adverse events. Wear hearing protection when running your lawn mower, chainsaw, weed eater…whatever. Once it’s gone it’s not coming back. I like these passive muffs from Peltor. When working with extremely loud tools (or shooting guns) I double them up with ear plugs.

Gloves: These might not be absolutely essential in day-to-day life. For most of my life – up until the last year or so – I have never been fan of work gloves. I don’t know why; I just haven’t liked them. I have finally started wearing gloves but to be honest, more often than not I will get to work without putting them on. This isn’t a good practice during an emergency where access to healthcare may be limited. Though it’s really easy to forget that minor cuts and scratches used to kill people, they did, and they still have the potential to today. I have a couple pairs of Mechanix gloves, and I am much better at wearing them now than I used to be. Even if you don’t use gloves all that often I recommend having a pair on hand.

Screwdrivers

This is probably the most basic of the basic. You will need both some slotted and Phillips screwdrivers, in several sizes each. Most people can probably avoid the very large and very small versions and stick with the mid-sized screwdrivers. This Craftsman 8-piece set is the basis of my screwdrivers and a really good starting point.

The bare minimum: if you are on a budget, extremely tight on space, or just want a really nice junk-drawer screwdriver – check out the Lutz 15-in-1 screwdriver. My local hardware store sells branded ones, and I have several. I keep one upstairs in a kitchen drawer, one on my workbench, and one is a “rover” that’s constantly making its way around the house. This thing is probably my single most-used tool. In addition to having 7 double-ended bits, it also ratchets. You can ratchet forward, backward, or lock in both ways. Seriously – once you have this thing you’ll wonder how you lived without it.

Pliers

I definitely recommend having some pliers. Pliers can subsitute for a wrench and allow you to tighten or loosen bolts, they can grasp things firmly, cut wire and more. If you’re only going to have only one set of pliers, I think it should be needle-nosed (sometimes called long-nosed) pliers. Needle-nosed pliers will grip small items similar to regular, slip-joint pliers. But they will also fit into smaller spaces and they generally have a wire-cutter built in. In my opinion they’re just a little bit more versatile than other types of pliers.

Next, I would say get a pair of slip-joint pliers, followed by more specialty pliers like lineman’s pliers and channel-locks (yes, I know it’s a trade-name).  Channel locks are awesome because their jaws can be adjusted to accommodate a very wide range of material sizes (somehow I have ended up with half a dozen sets of them). If you want to buy a fairly comprehensive set of pliers, I would recommend this set from Craftsman.

Hex Keys

Hex keys screws are insanely popular because they are cheap to manufacture and the tools to turn them are strong and cheap. All of us have ordered some product that came with a hex wrench to be used for assembly. If you are a much more organized than me you may have saved all of these hex keys (I use the terms “hex key” and “hex wrench” interchangeably, by the way). If you’re like most people those things are long lost by the time you need to tighten up the legs on that chair. And the freebie hex keys aren’t that great anyway. I think you should own a good, high-quality set of hex keys.

I really like this set from Rexbeti (whoever they are). It includes standard, metric, and star wrenches. In what I think is the coolest idea in a long, long time, they separate the standard and metric by making one black and one stainless. There are certainly less expensive sets, but most of mine have ended up looking like the mess in the photo below. Not any more.

These wrenches also have a “ball end” which makes it possible to turn screws without being perfectly inline with them. This is a nice set. If you only want the standard and metric and not the star bits you can save yourself a few bucks and just get the SAE and Metric set.

The tools we have covered so far are very simple tools, yet they will allow you to deal with a substantial number of problems. Even if you’re the type of homeowner that would never dream of doing your own repairs or even hanging pictures, these tools are important just for general upkeep. And they form the basis of everything else.

Hammer

Everyone should own a hammer.  I recommend this Estwing hammer. There are a few things to be aware of in regards to hammer design that this hammer has. Let’s look at them.

Claw style: standard construction hammers come with a claw on one side. The claw is designed to remove nails for any number of reasons: they are bent, were placed temporarily, they need to be replaced, or you’re disassembling something. The claw can either be curved or straight. The claw on my hammer (the one appearing in all these photos) is straight. I prefer a straight claw because honestly I think it’s easier to remove a nail with a straight claw. The straight claw can also be used to arrest your fall should you go sliding toward the edge of a roof, and it’s a little more helpful with light demolition chores. The Estwing hammer I recommended here has a straight claw.

Handle material: I used to think handle material was much more important than it actually is. I would turn my nose up at any wood-handled hammer. Then for one reason or another I needed a hammer and didn’t have a lot of money, so I purchased the hickory-handled Kobalt hammer you see in the photos here. That was almost five years ago and guess what? My dad has a wood-handled hammer that he remodeled our whole house with when I was a kid. I also think back to a hickory-handled hammer my grandfather had that were going on five decades.

You will occasionally miss the nail and it (or the substrate) with the handle of the hammer. Obviously that creates some risk of breakage. I wouldn’t get too bent out of shape about material, though – hickory handles are plenty tough. The alternatives are fiberglass, which I’ve always preferred, and steel. The Estwing hammer I recommend here has a steel handle that is almost guaranteed to last a lifetime and only costs $20 – about $5 more than a fiberglass handled hammer. If anything gives out on this hammer it will be the handle.

Weight: When buying a hammer you will often see a weight listed in ounces. This is the weight of the head. The greater that weight, the less force you have to apply to put the same driving energy onto the head of a nail. Unfortunately that’s also more mass you’re moving thousands of times per day, so… it’s up to you. Think about your use-case and how much you’ll actually use it, and what you’ll actually use it for. I believe a 16-ounce hammer is just fine for most laypeople.

Measuring & Marking Tools

Measure twice, cut once! It only makes sense to talk about measuring tools before we talk about cutting tools. In a minimalist’s tool kit there are only a couple of things you really need.

Tape Measure: I imagine that most households already have a tape measure. Maybe it’s a little “mini” tape measure in a purse or a full-sized on in a junk drawer, but you probably already have one. If you don’t, you should fix it, post-haste. I really like Stanley tape measures. I own two – one is over 20 years old and one is ten years old. Both are going strong. From converting a van to an RV to putting in fences to…you name it, I’ve used those Stanley tape measures for just about every imaginable purpose and they still work. I’m seeing a lot of newer tape measures with built in lasers and whatnot. My advice: keep it simple.

Carpenter’s Pencils: Get a bunch. Sharpen all of them. Leave them strategically placed around the perimeter of your workbench. Put one on both sides of your tool belt. That way you’ll always be able to find one (and a sharp one) when you need it. I also like to keep Bic lighters around the perimeter of my work bench – another thing you often seem to need but are rarely able to find.

Chalk Line: I wasn’t going to put a chalk line into this generalist kit until I looked it up and realized it is only $6. A chalk line is a reel containing some thin, cotton string that is covered in colored, powdered chalk. Then you pull out a section of the string, pull it tight on a board, and “pop” it, it marks a long, straight line that you can then cut, use to apply nails in a straight line over a joist, or whatever. If you’re going to be doing any appreciable building or cutting of lumber (especially ripping sheathing) you will need one of these. Otherwise you might be able to skip it but for $6 I’d probably pick one up.

Swanson Speed Square: Not named after Ron Swanson (to my knowledge) but the Swanson Speed Square is essential! I have at least three of these (unfortunately one of which is the broken plastic one). The Swanson Speed Square does a lot of different stuff and I’m not going to go into all of it here. Most commonly I use it to mark straight cut lines across dimension lumber. I’m telling you – it would be hard for me to function without one of these. As I mentioned earlier I recommend the metal version over the plastic. Your grandchildren should be able to pass them down to their children one day. I keep one on the work bench and one in my tool belt.

Saws

I recommend that most people have two saws: a hacksaw and a handsaw. Each of these serves a separate purpose, so let’s take a closer look at each.

Hacksaw: The hacksaw is used, primarily, to cut metal and plastic. Tasks like cutting the head off a bolt, cutting a piece of pipe or shortening a piece of angle-iron call for a hacksaw (assuming power tools cannot be used, of course). A hacksaw basically consists of three components: a handle, a blade, and a frame that places tension on the blade. The hacksaw pictured here is a Stanely saw that I bought five or six years ago and it is a fantastic saw. It tensions really well, allows you to mount the blade in a standard, vertical orientation, as well as several other angles that are useful for cutting in tight spaces. It also holds some extra blades in the top bar of the frame. Unfortunately I do not believe this saw is made any longer – I can’t find it anywhere.

If I were buying a saw today I believe I’d buy this Klein hacksaw. It’s $25 and some hacksaws are cheaper, but there isn’t a massive price-band here. The cheapest hacksaw I was able to find on Amazon was $13. I’d go ahead and spring for the far, far superior Klein. While you’re at it, make sure to pick up some extra hacksaw blades. Blades break. Even worse, they dull, making you work twice as hard to get the same amount of work done. Make sure you know the length of your hacksaw frame (blade length is the critical measurement) when buying blades (yep, I’ve made that mistake).

Handsaw: the handsaw is made to cut wood. A good handsaw will cut just about any kind of lumber: plywood, dimension lumber, whatever. You can rip plywood with one, or trim up a 6×6 post. They don’t require batteries, extension cords, or any of that stuff and believe it or not they can actually be a bit more forgiving when it comes to cutting a straight line. I wouldn’t be without a handsaw!

There are two ways to get a a handsaw: go buy a new one, or find an old one at a flea market, second-hand store, garage sale, estate sale, or the like. Because metal is so much harder than wood, a handsaw blade rarely does, and those old handsaws were made to a completely different (read: better) standard. I have an old one but it’s at my dad’s, so the one I’m showing you here is a new one, a 20″ Dewalt, and I really, really like it. You want to hang your handsaw as pictured to keep the blade from warping.

If you are looking for more details, kindly visit Non-Sparking Tools.

Wrap Up