Cylindrical battery production solutions, making machines, golve box

Cylindrical Lithium Ion Battery Automatic Equipment

In the production process of cylindrical lithium ion batteries, pre-forming is an important process. Pre-forming is to activate the internal activity of the battery with the energy of electricity.

You can find more information on our web, so please take a look.

The negative electrode of the battery forms A SEI film. Good-quality chemical conversion equipment can ensure that the battery has a better quality. And charge and discharge performance and cycle life, too.

At present, due to the large weight of the monomer. Most rely on the manufacturing method of single-section turnover.

The manual operation method causes problems such as a high battery quality defect rate. An artificial body that is prone to scratches and deformations.

And the chemical composition data that cannot be reliably traced back. Because of low handling efficiency, and poor safety.

In order to overcome the problems , the existing cylindrical lithium ion battery pre-forming process mostly relies on manual turnover manufacturing methods.

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The problems of high labor intensity, low number of equipment and low utilization rate, poor use safety, etc.

They provide a lithium battery automated production line to achieve lithium ion Battery manufacturing process.

It’s  high-quality, high-efficiency cylindrical lithium ion battery automatic equipment.

Lithium battery automatic production line can realize full-automatic code scanning-injection-weighing-rehydration-sealing operation.

In the super purification glove box, it realizes highly efficient and completely unmanned automated production, too.

And it greatly saves labor costs and greatly increasing productivity. And product quality and yield maximize customer benefits.

If you want to learn more, please visit our website Cylindrical Battery PACK Line.

After spending tons of money buying several Ebay cylindrical batteries (ping and lau's) that went bad after 6 months of usage (Lau and Ping V1), I've decided to build a battery holder to see if I could re-use some of the left over cell from those pack. I'm now only building A123 cells but this will work for any cylindrical cells - Original thread is here,

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=&start=0&hilit=+holder

From that effort, I think I found a way for almost anyone with basic woodworking skill to build a battery pack in any configuration or shape. And when something is wrong with the pack, its easy troubleshoot and take out just the cell/string without disassembling entire pack.

Note - I'm building this pack at this point, so it will be work in progress and more details will be filled in...

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(Update 1)

Materials needed:

1) Battery Clips from Mouser.com (Part # 534-209) - I typically buy at a time but you only need 160 or so for 48v 12ah pack.

2) Copper Strip from McMaster.com (Part # K721) - this is 1/2" x 1/16 x 6' strip. You'll need 3 or 4 strips.

3) Soft wood - From home depot or lowes. Make sure its soft wood (pine works great). The soft wood is easier to work with and you don't have to pre-drill holes. If you like to measure thing in n-th degree, go for it. But for those of use who like to eyeball thing - you could screw right into soft wood without pilot hole and it won't split the wood

4) #6 and #8 wood screws. Get bunch of these in 3/4" and 1" length.

5) Aviation Snip - to cut the copper strip.

6) Wires - I'll let you determine this but I like to use 24 gauge for single cell line as its easier to hide/fold. For main lines - I use 2 gauge wire or you could double it up. I forget where but I bought super flexible wire from some post from this forum.
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This pictures show the frame for this pack. I'm building 48v 12ah pack (I'll list the dimension later),

Here's picture showing cut copper strips. The aviation snip makes it easy to cut those. You'll also need a file to smooth the edges,

I've recently purchase a battery bracket from Electricrider.com (http://electricrider.com/crystalyte/battbrkt_detail.htm). Surprisingly, this pack fits nicely into that bracket. I'm not sure if I'll use the pack as I like to hide my batteries but its an option.View attachment 2

The copper strips are placed and is strong enough to hold 6 cell string. If you are going for bigger string, you'll need to put a spacer to pull the strips together. A 1/4" wood rod will work. The cells on this pictures are not clamped down or soldered - they are free floating and this will make it easy to troubleshoot or take individual cells if need be (I've rode this setup all last year and it works great).

The wires shown here are soldered on back of the battery clips. On previous packs, I didn't soldered them and just duct tape them - works fine either way. Most batteries are hidden anyway, so whatever makes it easy wins! These wires are for single cell charging. You could also use the same wire for balancing if you are going that route.

I'll post more as I move toward final configuration. I'm still deciding on where to put the battery. I was going to put it in the frame (its 3 1/2' wide) but I'm leaning toward Electric rider's bracket or rear pannier - we'll see.

cheers! Dogman, I don't remember, its was couple/several years ago and even the pouch version is not that stable and had couple of them go bad too. I guess that is why I wanted something very simple so that I don't have to de-couple/de-solder an entire pack to troubleshoot. In the end, I just gave up on most of those Chinese packs. The other thing is the power that you won't get in Chinese packs (or even newer stuff some are using now). As long as your controller can handle it, you could get some high amp's out of these cells. By the way, I don't use BMS/balancer, etc. I know what I need and I use single cell chargers every once in a while and they are good to go. Granted, I never go below 50% anyway but again, thats the draw for some I would assume.

As for the free-floating, I did use glue gun for each string. Its not permanent but made it easier to handle. Again, these cells are pretty durable and its easy to pad to make it tight. For this pack, I'll be using expanding foam material (not the home depot stuff) and fit it into final bag/bracket. Update - Added following information to original post.

Materials needed:

1) Battery Clips from Mouser.com (Part # 534-209) - I typically buy at a time but you only need 160 or so for 48v 12ah pack.

2) Copper Strip from McMaster.com (Part # K721) - this is 1/2" x 1/16 x 6' strip. You'll need 3 or 4 strips.

3) Soft wood - From home depot or lowes. Make sure its soft wood (pine works great). The soft wood is easier to work with and you don't have to pre-drill holes. If you like to measure thing in n-th degree, go for it. But for those of use who like to eyeball thing - you could screw right into soft wood without pilot hole and it won't split the wood

4) #6 and #8 wood screws. Get bunch of these in 3/4" and 1" length.

5) Aviation Snip - to cut the copper strip.

6) Wires - I'll let you determine this but I like to use 24 gauge for single cell line as its easier to hide/fold. For main lines - I use 2 gauge wire or you could double it up. I forget where but I bought super flexible wire from some post from this forum.

All I could think of it for now. Wow, this is great. I have been playing around with trying to find simple "bolt together " solutions for building a123-based packs for, well, for years. This is about as simple as it comes, great job.

A couple of suggestions. You might want to use brass strips, instead of copper, as they won't oxidize. Also, I agree that a single wider strip might be a bit better, connection-wise, but the single strips will certainly work fine. I would put connecting strips on each end, though, to even out the load.

I usually soldered the battery clips to the strips, to keep them from moving around, but I was using the thinner copper strapping. These strips are a lot thicker.

For the tap wires, I really think 24-gauge is a bit small. With the BMS stuff I've been doing, I've discovered there can be quite a bit of voltage loss in the tap wires, which plays havoc with balancing circuits. Even with individual cell charging, which is usually 2A, or so, minimum, I think 24-gauge wires will get a bit warm. Anyway, I use 18-gauge now, on everything.

I think using the glue gun, to hold the five cells together, is a good idea, as the glue sticks well to the paper/cardboard tube on the cells, but can be "snapped" apart, if you need to replace a cell, or reconfigure some.

Maybe a few more pics, with some closeups of the straps/clips?

Anyway, great idea.

-- Gary