TDZ-CUT2 Tape Dispenser Definite Length Automatic Tape Cutter

The TDZ-Cut 2 is a high productivity carousel dispenser which automatically cuts and places a predetermined length of tape on a rotating carousel for maximum singular or multiple operator efficiency. This unit accepts tape widths from 0.125" to 0.98" (3 - 25 mm) and cuts lengths from 0.51" - 2.36" (13 - 60 mm). The TDZ-Cut 2 allows up to 20 pieces of tape to be cut at the press of a button. Accepts most tapes and is perfect for high production of sublimation drink wear, tiles, etc. A proven time and labor saver!

Unit dispenses up to 15 tape strips (adj tape strip length) at a time.

Dimensions:
Length: 11.5"
Width: 6.5"
Height: 6.75"
Weight: 6.5 Lbs

Core Size: 1", 1.25", 3"
Max Width of Tape: 0.98"
Max Diameter of Tape Roll: 5"
Power: 110 volts

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I much prefer the look of painted markings instead of decals, I can't get the decals to act like paint.

I have bothered an individual member here with private messages, but thought a wider net might be in order. 

I have used masks and stencils in my armor modeling, and have some masks lined up for the P47 i am working on, but see that many have vinyl cutters that they use for making their own masks.

This would strictly be for own own use, I have no time or patience for a side hustle, so if volume capability is a concern, I don't need that.  

I have done a lot of reading, but unfortunately, most of the consumer information is general in nature, craft focused, understandably.  I have searched here, but, no offense, the search feature does not seem to catch much.

I have done some reading here

https://www.scalemodelpaintmasks.com/

but the traffic is pretty light, and many of the threads about versions of hardware are pretty old.    

I am leaning toward a silhouette cameo?  I am not sure what the difference is between the generations, versions, and subversions.  I might play with vinyl stickers for friends and toolboxes, but the purpose of the purchase is to make high quality marking masks for 1/32 aircraft. 

I don't need the latest/greatest, unless, that is, it's better for these purposes.  I just don't have enough information from people who use them to do what i want to do to make an informed decision.  

Personally, I am decently computer savvy, I set up my own home network, printers, etc.  I use computers every day, but for word processing.  I don't yet know any CAD or similar, but am willing to learn if it's needed.  I would like to get something that will do what I need for the foreseeable future.  

I note that many bundles have all kinds of craft stuff in them, is there a basic bundle I should look for, like blades and a cutting mat?  Prices all over seem almost Apple level controlled, so that is simplified.  

EDIT:  I really am a newbie in this area.  I just realized there are several different sizes of cameo.  My focus is 1/32 aircraft, but even the smallest cameo seems larger than any decal sheet dimensions I have seen, but I am open to comment on any and all of this.

Thanks

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For having used both 3 and 4 cameo models (The 3 to its dead not long ago) I find both equivalent in term of precision once you have the right setting. one thing that bothered me at the first cut with the 4 was the creepy noise coming out of it, as my 3 had a very smooth accoustic signature. It find now the noise of -4 less disturbing, maybe everything settled in the mechanic (or I am just used to it..).

You cant use the -3 autoblade on -4 and there is no adapter. so you have to buy the right spare blades at the start.
Cameo doesnt sell the -3 anymore, and it seemed to be OOS everywhere when I wanted to replace the dead -3 with another. So if you buy it new, you'll have to go with the -4.

There are new interesting features on the -4 like the Pix Scan. There is an optical scanner that spot reference marks on the pixscan mat (sold separatly..) and allow to cut border around an existing image. Might be interesting to cut the border film on decals.

For the rest, the best is to come out and play. Learning the software is easy and fast. And there is a lot of fun and satisfaction as reward.

For a conclusion: a few things I wish I was told when a began with this. That's not compulsory of course, there are always exceptions.

1. Always use a transfer tape when you apply your mask, even for the simple designs.

2. When you design, use as much as physical references points or line as you can. Use panel lines to place the border of a mask. it will be of great help when putting it on a model.

3. Dont use, or refrain to use when possible, the auto vectorize function of a scan or an image. Better spend time building your geometric figures with straight lines and precise curves. the vectorise function works well at first sight, but induce sloppy cuts, and larger files to work on as they build a lot of undesired curves.

Edited May 7, by MDuv

I have a regular size Cameo 4, 12" width. Personally, I don't see the need for anything wider for masks for painting markings, etc. I haven't done much yet (1/32 T-2 canopy masks, 1/48 A-20 canopy masks and some lettering, 1/28 Camel markings), but I've not had any problems either. I cut everything using the mat. Max's suggestions on depth, force, and speed for Oracal 810 have worked just fine. I've also experimented with Oracal 813 and Artool Ultra Mask with those same settings and it has cut just fine. I've been cutting with the Cameo 4 Autoblade that came with it.

The biggest problem to me is that drawing cut lines with straight and curved lines requires zooming in really close and making sure the ends are really close together or slightly overlap. The software doesn't have a way to weld the endpoints together.

 tried setting up the bluetooth connection and after finally getting it to work, found it too fiddly on repeat connections, so I just use the USB cable with an extension all the time. It works really well with the USB connection. While I was trading emails with a tech about the bluetooth, I did make a suggestion about being able to weld endpoints.

HTH

Dave

Hello gents,

after having nagged member "turboprop" last year about some paint masks I figured I might as well go the whole mile and get a mask cutter myself. Basically I am standing now before the same dilemma as the original poster and I suppose all of you once did - i.e. which one to buy.

I'm doing mainly modern US Navy and USAF stuff at the moment and what I am looking or rather hoping for is finding a cutter that might be able to do halfway decent serial numbers. Can you guys maybe give some insight into what might be the smallest possible letter size for the cutters you own? - Just to get an impression of what's possible.

For instance: In 1/32 modern USN serials have figures the size of roughly 3mm in hight, so about 0.04'' or so. Names on canopies are even smaller. Any chance there is a cutter than can manage that small size?

Thanks a ton in advance for any good advice.

For more information, please visit BOPP Tape Core Cutting Machine.

Edited June 17, by bushande